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Phoenix rebirth: balance of skin regeneration

The Phoenix, a bird of fire symbolizing immortality, is a legendary creature characterized by its ability to rise from its ashes. This year, SILAB chose it as an allegory for regeneration, a topic based on new consumer expectations because it expresses the will for self-renewal, rejuvenation and the reliance on inner strength to face daily aggressions.

A science-backed skincare trend

In 2022, the tendency of consumers focuses on health, hedonism and naturality. This new thinking has awakened an entirely new understanding of skin biology that has changed the paradigm of care and protection of the skin. In their search for effective and reliable products, consumers continue to favor brands that enable scientific progress to serve the needs of beauty. Among popular topics, regeneration continues to be a preoccupation because of inspiration from aesthetic medicine and its conceptual relationship with eternal youth.

Regeneration is the innate capacity of living beings to repair themselves by the beneficial use of their own resources. This dynamic endogenous process occurs throughout life and regulates three major biological mechanisms of the skin: repair, homeostasis, and protection.

First, regeneration maintains cutaneous homeostasis. This occurs in most tissues by cyclic “degeneration” and regeneration processes. As a result of this, the skin is more able to defend and protect itself. This mechanism is also capable of limiting damage and alterations caused by skin aging, the exposome and/or chemical and mechanical aggressions. Reinforcing the biological capacities of the skin therefore results in enhanced skin quality that ensures its short- and long-term health and beauty.

The dynamics of skin regeneration is based on an equilibrium of cellular interactions between the cutaneous, vascular and immune systems.

The cutaneous system can initiate a cascade of biological events for its renewal and thereby repair damaged cutaneous tissue.
In the epidermis, two mechanisms participate in strengthening its barrier function:

  • re-epithelialization results from the proliferation, migration and differentiation of keratinocytes;
  • desquamation enables the epidermis to renew itself and eliminate the upper layer of dead cells while simultaneously preserving cell cohesion.

In the dermis, fibroblasts carry out matrix restructuring after the steps of proliferation, migration and differentiation into myofibroblasts. The metabolic activity of these specialized cells is considerable, guaranteeing optimal matrix architecture resulting from the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen.

The vascular and immune systems also participate in skin regeneration by ensuring the transport in the skin of nutrients, mediators and cells, and by the emergence of a population of macrophages called pro-regenerating.

It has been reported in the literature that these three biological systems undergo significant alterations with age or as a result of aggressions. Skin renewal attenuates, the cutaneous vascular network becomes disorganized, macrophages progressively become less functional and the dermal matrix scaffold collapses. This skin is fatigued, dull, lacks radiance and signs of age appear more visibly.

Silab’s solutions for elevated skin performance

By an unprecedented and original modeling studies developed by its laboratories, SILAB has for the first time shown the key role of fibroblasts in the alteration of the interconnectivity of systems resulting from aging. This research has led to the creation of a scientifically innovative active ingredient of biotechnological origin that revitalizes the interactions between the cutaneous, vascular and immune systems through the production of a growth elixir.

REGENIXIR® significantly favors the matrix restructuring and improves the epidermal dynamics, reinforces the population of pro-regenerating macrophages and promotes the formation of a vascular network. All these activities lead to a multiple and powerful improvement of Caucasian and Asian skin quality. As of 21 days of application, REGENIXIR® reduces wrinkles, attenuates the visibility of blood vessels and under-eye circles, and provides a healthy glow effect. All these benefits continue after 42 days of treatment and are perceived by the volunteers themselves through subjective evaluations.

Furthermore, SILAB proposes a selection of natural active ingredients whose activity restores the skin regeneration equilibrium by specifically stimulating certain biological mechanisms of the cutaneous system.

EXFOLACTIVE®, from nopal flowers, boosts the natural exfoliation capacity of the skin by stimulating the activities of desquamation enzymes. It therefore promotes skin renewal and eliminates scales for an optimal cutaneous barrier function. A comparative study has shown that it provides cosmetic benefits comparable to those of glycolic acid and salicylic acid.

GLYCO-REPAIR® acts on both the epidermis and the dermis for an overall repairing effect. It reactivates the natural mechanisms of epidermal and matrix regeneration, thereby enabling the renewal of cutaneous tissue to repair the skin.

Regenerative personalized solutions as a function of age

In the course of aging, the skin metamorphoses and its needs evolve. To address its physiological specificities, SILAB suggests a selection of natural active ingredients enabling to offer personalized solutions for all skin types.

Regeneration is a strategic approach to respond to a number of issues related to aging of the skin and to the multiple aggressions it faces every day. SILAB’s “Phoenix rebirth” concept is a transversal approach to the beauty and health of the body’s envelope that combines personalized care, naturality and science for tomorrow’s cosmetics.

Camille Desperiez

Marketing project leader
As a biologist engineer, I am fascinated by the benefits of Nature on well-being and on the skin. At SILAB, within the marketing and communication department, my creative spirit is expressed in the production of thematic and trend presentations. In an international environment, my job requires to be continuously attentive to the current and future needs of consumers.

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